Mix one part Malts Club, a venerable home brewing group, one part Hops Club, a beer appreciation organization, and one part unaffiliated beer fans and you have the recipe for creating a whole that is much larger than the sum of its parts. That was the equation on a recent Sunday afternoon at the Gaslight brewpub in South Orange, NJ when these disparate elements united to form North Jersey’s newest, and one of its largest, organized beer groups, the Draught Board 15.
“Our home brew club has been around a long time,” said Malts founder Dan Soboti. “ We thought it was time to augment our focus.” Vin Lacovara, President Emeritus of the Hops Club, concurred. “ Our group wanted to increase its beer tasting experience. What better way than to join with a home brew club. After all, everyone has to believe in something and we believe in beer.” To further reach out to both beer novice and experienced aficionado, the Gaslight Brewpub extended an open invitation to its patrons to join. Echoing the sentiments of many in this group was pub denizen Scott Ojeda who said, “I signed up for the club the instant I learned about it. I was looking for a way to learn more about beer and this was it. For me, beer is a basic food group.”
The meeting convened in the welcoming confines of the fireplace area in Gaslight’s beautiful Victorian parlor as the afternoon’s featured speaker, the renowned raconteur of zymurgy and respected beer judge, Jeff Levine, was introduced. “Ever taste a beer and tell someone it just isn’t right or that it simply tastes good?” the affable Judge Levine began. Almost everyone nodded yes. “When I’m done that will no longer be a sufficient evaluation,” he warned. A chorus of “ahs” became audible in the background. This was an audience eagerly awaiting enlightenment. “Hopefully,” the Judge continued, “each of you will soon be able to explain precisely why bad beer is really so awful and why good beer is oh so heavenly.” A worthy goal indeed, but he cautioned, “a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing. The ability to evaluate a beer is not an easy charge, for with knowledge comes responsibility. Never again will a beer be just a beer.”
Judge Levine’s cram course began with a list of descriptions that would make an alchemist proud. Smell rotten eggs or burning matches? There is hydrogen sulfide in your beer. Discover clove- like aromas or medicinal, plastic like flavors? The beer is phenolic. Detect fruit flavorings or a rose smell? Call it estery. What about that sweet, corn-like or cooked vegetable fragrance? That indicates the presence of dimethyl sulfide. What of those often present green apple aromas and flavors? Acetaldehyde, of course. Whew. It almost seems that if a beer tastes ok, something was overlooked! Fortunately, not all chemicals are bad. Without things like hydrogen and oxygen there would be no water, and hence no beer. Better drinking through chemistry is, after all, true.
Next the members were introduced to the official beer style guide. Twenty-six distinctive brews long. Judge Levine expounded on the differences between strong ale, pale ale, light pale ale, English ale, India pale ale, and a pail of ales (just seeing if you were paying attention). He pointedly ended by explaining that the number of varieties in the pale ale category makes all others pale in comparison. (Don’t blame me, he said it.)
This was followed by the ‘hands on’, or more accurately, the ‘mouths on’ segment. Trusty stewards (trusty because the majority of the beer actually did make it to the members) began to distribute bottles to each table. The Judge slowly and deliberately explained how to properly taste each sample. He instructed everyone to visually inspect the bottles for clarity, sediment, and signs of problems. One astute club member immediately noticed the “this stinks” label pasted on one of the samples he was given. Not quite a technical assessment, but definitely unambiguous. Judge Levine recommended that he make up his own mind on its quality. After all, that was the point of the meeting.
The Judge then demonstrated the proper way to pour the beer. He precisely tilted his cup so as to create a generous foamy head, large enough to enjoy, but small enough so as not to interfere with drinking. Even the novices in the crowd could appreciate that. He then gently swirled the beer to bring up it’s nose, or aroma, as he deeply inhaled its sublime smells. The crowd followed suit immediately, although a few of the more exuberant members got a nose full of the head instead of a head full of the nose. Most, however, were able to appropriately sniff the richness of malt, hops and yeast in their samples. The Judge seemed pleased.
Next came the actual tasting. No chugging allowed since, as Judge Levine explained, that would make you miss many flavors. Each member was told to gently coat the inside of his mouth with the elixir before swallowing. This would allow the liquid to make contact with lips, gums, teeth, palate, and all sides of the tongue. The Judge explained that sweetness is detected on the tip, saltiness on the front and sides, sourness on the back of the tongue, while the roof of the mouth detects them all in combination. Swallowing the beer did not finish the taster’s task. Judge Levine advised each taster to deeply exhale through the nose after drinking to maintain a lingering finish in the mouth.
Finally, the Judge encouraged comments from his eager pupils. He beamed with pride as one neophyte drinker said his sample “ had a smooth, unobtrusive maltiness and an encroaching bitterness that was accommodating and balanced, reflecting a carefully calibrated blend of strength and gentleness.” From another part of the room came the view that the “sample’s pungent hoppiness was softly absorbed into a tasty cushion of malty sweetness that evolved into a solid character that finished docile, yet supported a jaunty energy in a slightly astringent finish.” Beer novices had been transformed in a manner reminiscent of Dr. Frankenstein, or more appropriately in this case, Dr. Beer-in-stein.
The Judge packed up his notes, papers, and supplies, content in a job well done. As he was leaving, he stopped at a near corner table and thanked the members there for their standing ovation. This particular group had hung on his every word, taking copious notes the entire session. “ You were the most attentive people here, yet I noticed you chose not to tell the club about your evaluations. What was your opinion of that last beer?” he inquired. One gentlemen, the name tag read Wayne, apologetically replied, “ we loved it, but aren’t exactly sure why.” “But” he quickly added, “ the bottle sure has a pretty label.” While others nearby cringed at hearing this, Judge Levine just gently smiled and nodded. He recognized that not everyone needs to be an experienced judge, certified or otherwise, to enjoy fine beer. He understood that it really isn’t mandatory to identify diethyl sulfide, acetaldehyde, or anything else, to appreciate a good ale or lager. The beer community has a big tent. The Draught Board #15 welcomes all. Truly, the Judge mused, beauty is in the hand of the beer holder.
Vince Capano North American Guild of Beer Writers Quill & Tankard Award Winner VinceC@mmmbeer.zzn.com
For information or to affiliate with the club contact www.draughtboard15@yahoo.com.
